Dear Carol,

Would you please tell us what some of the fastest growing shade trees are and what is the best time of the year to plant them?

Also what is the best time of year to plant Mango trees?

Thank you,
Ruth and Julian

Dear Ruth & Julian;
Planting trees is a subject that we could talk about for weeks and probably never answer your question satisfactorily. The short answers to your questions are:

You can plant trees here in Florida just about anytime you can provide water for establishment.

The term "fast-growing" is relative, any tree is "fast-growing" if provided with the proper things necessary to grow.

However, I suspect that you are looking for a quick fix for trees either lost during the hurricanes or to provide shade on a specific site. Like many things though, you will be happier with a bit of analysis and thought before planting trees.

Here is the text to several of my articles that were run after the storms to help homeowners through the process of planting trees, hopefully this will help you decide what to plant.

Carol

Hurricanes and Trees

Is it November 30th yet? November 30th, you know the end of hurricane season? And if one more person, including myself says, "I’ve had enough," physical violence may become an option. Granny Cloud used to declare that hurricanes are part of the package. Hurricane preparations were part of her every day life and her choices, including planting the landscape, taken in to consideration. You see, to Granny Cloud there was no if, but simply when the next hurricane hit.

As we start getting our lives back together, repairing and replacing our landscape plants, particularly the trees, will be part of the healing processes for many. The Treasure Coast is just not the same place without a lovely selection of trees. However, before you plant, take Granny Cloud’s philosophy to heart -- hurricanes are when, not if.

I would like to share with you some of my observations as well as those of some of my fellow south Florida horticulturists about what has happened to our trees so far this storm season. Then we will talk about choosing and planting trees "Florida-Style."

Ø First and foremost, unhealthy trees, or trees with compromised root systems, failed, broke or fell.

Ø Preventive maintenance, including correct pruning while the trees are young, produce a tree that is less likely to fail than neglected trees.

o Trees with one dominant trunk faired better than trees with co-dominant stems.

o Trees with bark inclusions are prone to falling apart.

o Large pruning cuts create decay and cracks that can lead to breakage in storms.

Ø Some tree species such as non-native Ficus species and weak-wooded laurel oaks are more likely to fail and/or fall.

Ø Healthy appearing trees can fools us and can blow down due to decay and rot in supportive roots from such things as over-irrigation, high water tables, and naturally wet soils.

Ø Healthy trees may become unstable and fall because the soil becomes soft from saturation during the storm, or in the case of the Treasure Coast, storms.

Ø Construction activities within about 20 feet of the trunk of existing trees can cause the tree to blow over more than a decade later.

Ø Queen palms are prone to falling over; Washingtonias are susceptible to breaking; Cabbage and Phoenix palms seem to be able to stand if healthy and have not been subjected to regular "hurricane pruning."

Ø Trees in a group blow down less frequently than single trees.

Ø Trees growing in confined soil spaces are prone to blowing over. Have you noticed that many trees in small parking lot islands, medians and the small spaces between the sidewalk and the road failed?

Now is the time to take pictures, make some paper plans, and make a list of the plants/trees you like. We will discuss next how you can minimize damage to trees and therefore, your property from storms by designing and implementing a tree installation and management plan.

Trees and Hurricanes, Round 2

We are starting to reclaim our lives and landscapes. Sure enough, the first calls came in recently about replanting trees and landscapes damaged by the hurricanes. Last time we spoke about what happened to local trees and landscapes, with those lessons in mind, let’s talk about planning for a better outcome when the next storm hits.

All plants, including trees, grow best when planted in a location where the characteristics; soil type, pH, moisture, drainage, light or lack of light, and space for growth, to name a few, match the plants growth requirements. I have a cousin, a fifth generation Floridian who now lives in Boston because he hated the heat and humidity of Florida, me I like it. The plants in our landscapes are just as diverse and picky. Match the plant to the site and watch them grow.

Site analysis is the key. Site characteristics will most likely differ between areas on the same property, make note and conduct your analysis in writing. It is a simple thing to draw your home and note each condition on your site map.

Remember to note on your analysis any damage to the landscape from the storms. Include the name of the damaged plant, the type of damage, and the site conditions prior to the storms. Draw a rough outline of any standing water. Doesn’t the cliché tell us to study the past to prevent making the same mistakes in the future?

The average minimum and maximum temperature of specific areas of the property should be measured or estimated. Remember to mark somewhere on your analysis your USDA Planting Zone, usually Zone 9 or 10 on the Treasure Coast. Generally, the minimum winter temperatures occur on the northern side of the house. Southern exposures will be the warmest during the winter but there can be dramatic temperature fluctuation during a given day on the south side of a house that may predispose plants to winter damage. Most trees grow best in full sun, so be aware of plants or structures that will compete for sunlight.

We have had a lot of water, go ahead, laugh at this understatement, but poor soil drainage may cause roots of some plants to rot while other plants adapt to wet areas. If water is still standing after the storms or stood for longer that 3 to 4 days, then mark that on your analysis and plan to plant – or not – accordingly. Even plants recommended for wet areas that are produced in containers or in a well-drained nursery soil may not be able to adapt quickly enough to survive on the site. If a surface drainage problem exits, possible solutions should be considered.

The best solution - correct the drainage problem in the landscape before planting by altering surface or subsurface drainage patterns with tiles, proper grading, or other methods. The feasibility of this solution must be determined as part of the site analysis and usually with the help of a professional such as an engineer. Determine the options for where runoff water should be directed if surface drainage modifications are necessary. Be sure to check with local Code Enforcement or Growth Management departments before starting any changes in grade for any necessary permits.

Did you lose power? Did a tree fall on power lines in your neighborhood? Tree size, space for growth, and location matter. Choose to plant only small maturing trees (less than 25 feet in height) below and within 25 feet of any overhead line. Plant large maturing trees (greater than 25 feet in height) at least 25 feet (preferably 40 feet or more) from the lines. This will help lessen tree interference with the lines. How about a tree on your roof? It is recommended that you do not plant any tree closer than 15 feet from the structure; most trees require more space. Avoid planting large-maturing trees in areas less than 20 X 20 feet. Allow at least 400 square feet of soil space for each tree. These steps will help prevent those compromised root systems we spoke of last time that caused tree failure.

You may think that this step, site analysis, is too involved or unnecessary for "just planting a tree." But this step will help prevent damage the next time Mother Nature decides to play rough. There are no guarantees that any tree planted will not fail next time, but all do diligence will reduce the possibility. Also, a happy tree will grow and fill in more quickly than one that is unhappy. Isn’t that like our teenagers? Oh well, just do it, you will thank me later.

Once you have mapped your site conditions, it’s time to select plants that will be our task for next time.

Choosing Trees after the Storm

Did you do your homework? Have you taken a look at your landscape? Made notes on what trees failed, broke, or fell down and why? I know you have done the site analysis we spoke of last time. Now you know and have made note of how much space you have for trees to grow. You know whether the soil retains water or drains very well. The notes on the site plan include the information about which USDA Zone you live in, where the shady spots are, and the location of any above or below ground utilities. You are now ready to make a list of trees you like and whose growth needs and characteristics match your site.

OK, the site analysis is hard work. If you are having trouble making yourself do the work, maybe a form will help. Dr. Ed Gilman, Professor, Environmental Horticulture Department at the University of Florida in Gainesville has developed such a form. Site evaluation form for selecting the right tree for your planting site can be found at http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/planting/TreeSelectionIntroduction.htm . It will help you through the process.

Before we move on to the final list of trees for your perusal, let me bring up a "dirty" subject, after planting care and long-term maintenance. Remember, a healthy tree is more likely to survive the storm. Establishing a new tree is all about proper planting and irrigation. Most trees will require supplemental, that is more than your automatic irrigation system can provide, irrigation for 3 to 12 months after planting depending on trees species and site conditions.

Other factors that are important in the maintenance of trees include: using & maintaining mulch, restricting access to root system areas from parking, planting, & construction activities, irrigation after establishment in times of drought, fertilizer if and/or when needed, and appropriate pruning for young and mature trees. A commitment to proper tree care is as important in preventing damage to your trees from the next storm as is selecting and planting the proper trees.

So, which tree should you plant? I don’t know, but here are some general thoughts about selecting the right tree:

Ó Location – you are the best judge, can’t say it enough, match tree to site

Ó Consider using native species. We have many interesting native trees that are well adapted to local conditions.

Ó Look around the neighborhood, what survived? Will that plant work on your site?

Ó Ok, I give, a couple of my favorites are:

o Spicewood or Calyptranthes pallens. Spicewood grows from 5’-25', can survive partial shade, but prefers full sun and has a moderate salt tolerance. It is generally known as a small, shrubby tree with wonderful smelling leaves, burgundy-tinged new growth, and small white flowers. It can be sheared and grown as a hedge, yuck! and prefers moist soil.

o Jamaica caper or Capparis cynophallophora grows to 18’ tall in full sun to partial shade. It has a highs salt tolerance, is slow growing with lovely white, fragrant, spidery flowers.

o Sea grape or Coccoloba uvifera . This often-used tree grows from 10’ to 50’. Prefers full sun and has a high salt tolerance. A large shrub to large tree with large, thick, roundish leaves and edible fruit.

o Satinleaf or Chrysophyllum oliviforme grows to 30’ in full sun. Has a moderate salt tolerance. A very pretty tree, the tops of the leaves are glossy, vivid olive green with the undersides covered with soft, coppery brown hairs. Can be difficult to establish, but is well worth the trouble.

o Paradise tree or Simarouba glauca. Another large tree, 30’-50’ that requires full sun. Has a low salt tolerance, not good for beachside planting. A large, elegant tree with a broad crown of dark green, glossy leaves. Separate male and female trees. Females produce an abundance of small fruit. Must be planted on a well-drained site.

Other sources for lists of trees with their growth/site requirements are:

Ó Native Landscape Plants for South Florida - http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_EP222

Ó Tree selection for landscapes by Dr. Ed Gilman - http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/planting/TreeSelectionIntroduction.htm

Ó Forestry Trees of Florida - http://www.fl-dof.com/Pubs/trees_of_florida/

Ó Trees and Hurricanes - http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/TOPIC_Trees_and_Hurricanes

Ó Landscape Trees - http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/TOPIC_Trees

Ó Floridata - http://www.floridata.com/

Make a list of the trees you like, visit these websites, make note of the characteristics, then go to the nursery or garden center and take a look.

Like Granny Cloud, plan for the next hurricane. Prepare your landscape as well as yourself and know that you and your landscape will survive.