Hello Karin;
We chatted a bit about pineapples on the Blog recently at "Red Pineapple" at http://web.tcpalm.com/tcp/blogs/gardening/. However a little more specifically about pineapple propagation is found in the University of Florida's publication The Pineapple found at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG055 , here is an excerpt:
"Propagation is by planting new vegetative growth from the mother plant. There are four general types: "slips" which arise from the stalk below the fruit, "suckers" which originate at the axils of leaves, "crowns" which grow from the top of the fruits, and "ratoons" which come out from underground portions of the stem. "Slips" and "suckers" are the preferred planting material, especially if they are large and vigorous."

Karin, yes, remove the new plants growing in and around your pineapple and plant. This is the traditional and preferred way to start new plants. The mother plant will soon begin dying and the pups will replace the old plant -- you know the proverbial "Circle of Life."

Happy Gardening,
Carol

Thank you so much,
Doreen
Maryland

Hello Doreen,
It seems to me that the Holidays were just yesterday, In fact I was visiting with a friend who had her poinsettias sitting in pots on the back porch -- and this is June! Doreen, whether you have already planted them or are still trying to decide what to do with them, poinsettias are good landscape plants for the Treasure Coast. However, for you in Maryland, the plants will need to be kept in containers so that they can be protected from temperatures below freezing.

Poinsettias are perennial and will grow and flower year after year if planted in the right place with moderate care. The easiest way to grow poinsettias after the holidays is to plant them in the landscape, if you are in a warm location, where they receive no light at night. In more temperate climates, choose a large moveable container.

Poinsettias are photoperiodic. They are short-day plants, which means the plants grow leaves and stems under long days -- the summer, and flower under short days -- fall and winter. They need 12 to 12.5 hours of darkness to set flowers. Here in the northern hemisphere, this night length is reached around September 21. The short days must continue until the flower buds and bract color development begin to show, at least five week. For those trying to regrow their poinsettias, or produce flowers outside, this simply means that the plants must have total darkness at night from September on. It takes very little to disturb the flowering, even a security light can delay or prevent flowering.

When choosing a location for your poinsettia, remember that they are large plants, 10 to 15 feet when mature. Growers apply growth regulators to keep then short for the holiday potted plant you bought. After the holidays keep your poinsettia in a bright sunny location until the danger of frost or freeze passes, then plant it outside in a bright location, at least 6 hours of sun per day. Keep the plants well watered, but not wet.

If you are going to keep your poinsettia as a container plant, repot them when the plants start to grow, chose a larger pot and use fresh, sterile potting soil. When you plant, either in a container or outside, carefully check to see if there is more than one plant per pot, it common for growers to use a number of cuttings to achieve a full looking plant. If you find more than one, separate into individual plants. At that time of planting, the addition of a slow-release fertilizer is a good practice. If the red bracts (the flowers) are still holding on, pinch off the end of the branch. Irrigate to establish, but don’t overdo when the plant is established, poinsettias do not like wet feet.

As the plants grow, pinch the new shoots to produce multiple branches. Pinch the new growths when the get to be 6 inches long. This practice keeps the plants somewhat short and helps produce more flowers. Stop pinching about August 1st -- 15th to allow the new growth to mature and prepare for flowering. Remember, the plants will need darkness for more that 12 hours starting about Labor Day. If the plant is in a container and you cannot assure darkness at night, put the plant in a closet or garage in the afternoon and remove in the morning. If the plant is outside, make sure that no security lights are interrupting the night.

Poinsettias are a bit cold sensitive, watch for early cold snaps. If it looks like the temperatures are going to fall so that there is a frost or freeze, prepare to protect the plant with a covering that is supported so that the plastic or other covering does not touch the leaves or if in a container, move to a protected location.

Thank you for your question and Happy Gardening,

Carol

Dear Carol;
I have had a red pineapple plant growing in my garden for over ten years. This year it has grown a red pineapple on it. Is it edible?
Thanks for any info you may have to offer,
Unsigned
Vero Beach

and

Carol;
Found an interesting plant, a red pineapple, maybe originally from Hawaii.
Terry
Stuart

Yum! Pineapples! Red pineapple is known by the name Ananas bracteatus and originates from Brazil as do the most commonly grown pineapple Ananas comosus. The two species differ in that A. bracteatus has flowers borne in large showy heads with thorny bracts around the flowers. The fruit of the red pineapple is edible, but is often seedy and less sweet that that of A. comosus. There is also a variety of the red pineapple, Ananas bracteatus var. striatus that has broad, white stripes on the margin of the leaves that is often used as an ornamental plant.

Pineapple is fruit that is easy for home gardeners to grow in warm locations. Choose an area with full sun, well-drained soil, and access to supplemental irrigation in times of drought.

Propagation is also fairly easy, the pineapple is in the Bromeliaceae family and as such, the “mother” plant produces several types of offsets. Look for the vigorously growing pups along the flower stem BELOW the fruit and those produced under the plant. These new plants will be genetically the same as the mother plant and produce the same or similar type of fruit.

It is true that you can start a new pineapple plant from the crown of the fruit, but the plant that grows will be the result of pollination and will have some characteristics from the plant providing the pollen. It may be as good or even better than the original fruit, but it may be worse, kind of a genetic Russian roulette, ya’ get what Mother Nature gives you.

Pineapples bear fruit year ‘round in warn climates, the spring and summer are the best times for new plantings. Your new plant should produce fruit in 9 to 18 months from planting. Pineapple plants need regular applications of water and fertilizer. If you do not get one good rain a week, apply enough water to wet the soil evenly and deeply, to 12 inches, once per week – no wet feet or frequent irrigations for pineapple. Applying a well balanced, slow-release fertilizer with a heavy compliment of minor elements including iron and magnesium every 3-4 months or according to the label will help produce a nice full fruit.

Thanks for your questions, your picture, Terry, and Happy Gardening,
Carol

Hello Rick;
Thanks for the question about one of my favorite plants, Cestrum nocturnum or Night Blooming Jasmine. There are several Cestrums that grow in Florida, many of them weedy species and unfortunately the Night-Blooming species does tend to pop up around the garden, but for me, it is a small price to pay for a plant with such a “nose.”

Night Blooming Jasmine is native to the West Indies. It is a shrub that can grow to 12 feet, but more often is seen at 4 to 6 feet tall. In the day, it is an unassuming shrub, plain, green leaves, preferring to grow in full sun to partial shade, is somewhat drought tolerant, but prefers an occasional application of water, few pests, and no salt tolerance. It is at night when this plant “blooms” – pun intended. Throughout the year, but more so in warm weather, Cestrum blooms in cycles with an abundance or creamy white to green small flowers, nothing much to look at, but OH MY, what a fragrance! I have to report that there are some people who dislike the smell and some who are allergic, fragrance is truly a personal thing. My perfume may be your stench, but for me, the fragrance from Cestrum nocturnum is the sweetest.

Fortunately for you Rick, Night Blooming Jasmine is easy to propagate. It will propagate from seeds and cuttings that root easily with or without the use of a root promoting substance like Rootone.

Here are a few tips on making cuttings from the University of Florida publication Propagation of Landscape Plants found at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG108

“The key to successfully rooting cuttings and germinating seeds is a moist environment maintained at a favorable temperature. Environmental control is less important for other propagation methods, such as layering, because the mother plant provides some degree of support to the developing new plant. However, most cuttings and young seedlings are susceptible to environmental stress and will be successful only if an appropriate environment is provided.

An environment with a relative humidity near 100 percent will minimize water loss from cuttings and developing seedlings, although water loss is less critical for seedlings than cuttings. Cuttings cannot take water from the medium to replace that lost through the leaves, so if high rates of water loss occur, cuttings will dry-out. Temperature influences the physiological activity of plants. Excessively high or low temperatures injure plants or slow their growth and development, but temperatures in the range of 70°F to 80°F (21°C to 27°C) stimulate optimum growth and development for most plants.

The home gardener can provide a warm, humid environment for seed germination and rooting of cuttings by construction or purchasing small-scale propagation units. These units are inexpensive, require little attention, and are convenient to use in the home landscape or indoors...

Large plastic pots and a plastic bag can be used to create a suitable propagation environment Stick the cutting in a moist propagation medium in the container and add moisture as required. Place the whole container in a large, clear plastic bag. Wire hoops or stakes can be used to prevent the plastic bag from laying on the cuttings or seedlings...

The placement of these simple structures is critical. Put the structures in diffused light and never in full sun. The temperature in these sealed units will rapidly become too high in full sun, and cutting or seedling injury or death will result. Units kept indoors should be placed near a north window or under fluorescent lights for 12 to 16 hours per day. Temperatures of 65°F to 80°F (18°C to 27°C) should be maintained. Although these units are designed to prevent moisture loss, routine examination of the moisture level is suggested. Add moisture if no water has condensed on the inside of these units overnight, or if the propagation medium appears dry.”

Rick, I have made good propagation units from large soda bottles. Simply cut the bottle so that there is an area of 4 inches or so at the bottom for soil, take the cuttings and cover with the top of the bottle, cap removed. Place in a bright, but shady location and check regularly for moisture. Cestrum nocturnum will do well with any of these units. Take 4 inch cuttings from branch tips that are starting to harden up. We call these semi-hardwood cuttings. You do not want the brand new growth tips; these tend to wilt very easily which will delay rooting. Also, you do not want a section of the stem that is very woody; these tend to take a long time to root. However, you have chosen a plant that is very forgiving and should root for you in 6 to 12 weeks.

Good Luck and Happy Gardening,
Carol

I have tried spot granules that said it would kill dollar weeds and something like 40+ types of broadleaf weeds. I think I heard the weeds partying after the application, not sure! Needless to say I am at a loss; every neighbor I have has a different opinion of what to do. I hope you will be able to point me in the right direction. Thank you for your time in this matter

Sincerely,
Rick
Vero Beach, Fl

Hello Rick;
We have talked about lawn weeds before here on the BLOG, see the entry “Lawn Weeds” at http://blogs.scripps.com/tcpalm/gardening/2005/03/lawn_weeds.html

I have to say it again and few people want to hear this, but the best control for lawn weeds is proper lawn maintenance! The cliché applies – The best defense is a good offense. Good lawn management practices encourage a dense, thriving turf. Healthy turf shades the soil so sunlight can't reach weed seeds, minimizes the physical space available for weeds to grow, and out competes the weeds for nutrients and moisture. Here is a short review of the basics for good, healthy turf:

--Most turfgrass selections need 6 – 8 hour of sun per day. Too much shade equals thin turf & weed invasion.

--Mow it high and right! This is the single most important practice in a weed-free turf. If you remove the grass leaves that produce the things the grass plant needs to grow, then the turf will thin and weeds will invade.

--Watch the water and adjust for seasonal changes.

--Fertilize as a result of soil test recommendations.

Rick, work through the maintenance issues first, then consider an herbicide. Chemical herbicides do have their place, but just like any pest, the first step in weed control is identifying the pest, in this case the .weed. You must know what you are dealing with before choosing an herbicide. Unfortunately I have not found a lot of online help for weed identification, but here are a couple of sites that might be useful:

Tallapoosa County Extension Office – Weed Control http://www.aces.edu/Tallapoosa/weed-control.php3 This site has a good collection of pictures, however, please be aware that Tallapoosa County is in Alabama and the control recommendations are for transitional grasses and Alabama soils.

Lawn Problem Solver – Weeds in Turf http://www.turf.uiuc.edu/lawn_problem_solver/solver/weeds/
Another out of state site with good pictures, this one is from the University of Illinois, again look, but come back to Florida for control strategies.

Bayer Lawn & Grass Problem Solver at http://www.bayeradvanced.com/lawn/problem-solver/weeds.cfm?source=gaMany chemical manufacturers have helpful websites. My concern is that along with weed ID help, the message can be to use an herbicide first. With that in mind, I have found this site to have good pictures and information. Please note that no endorsement is implied by listing this site.

Use these sites for ID then head back to Florida for control recommendations at Weed Management in Home Lawns http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP141

One concern I have is about weed & feed products – this is what the University of Florida has to say about these formulations:
“Fertilizer/Herbicide Mixtures
Many herbicides are formulated with a granular fertilizer as the carrier. Fertilizer/herbicide mixtures enable a "weed-n-feed" treatment in the same application. These materials should only be used when a lawn has a uniform weed population. If weeds exist only on a portion of the lawn, do not apply a "weed-n-feed" product to the entire lawn. If the situation warrants the use of a "weed-n-feed" product, it is important to determine if the manufacturer's recommended rate of application supplies the amount of fertilizer needed by the turfgrass and the amount of herbicide that is required for weed control. Supplemental applications of fertilizer or herbicide may be required if the fertilizer/herbicide product does not supply enough fertilizer to meet the fertility needs of the turfgrass or the amount of herbicide needed for weed control. Turfgrass fertilizer/herbicide products should be used with caution near ornamentals. Products that contain dicamba, metsulfuron, or atrazine can be absorbed by the roots of ornamentals and cause severe injury. Do not apply products that contain these ingredients near the root zone of ornamental trees and shrubs.”

The last sentence here is what should concern you if you are considering using one of these products. The root zone of established trees and shrubs can range from 2 to 5 times the width of the canopy of the plant. In other words, if the shrub is 4 feet across, the roots can easily extend 8 to 12 feet in all directions and a tree with a 15 foot canopy can have roots that grow out to 30 feet or more. This root spread is dependent on tree species and soil conditions, but the possibility of herbicides in the root system must be considered when selecting a turf herbicide.

Finally, remember an herbicide is not a substitute for good lawn maintenance practices. Also, if you deicide to use an herbicide, be sure to read and follow all of the label directions and conditions before buying and again before applying for your safety and the safety of the environment.

Good Luck and Happy Gardening,
Carol

This Maple also went into shock and did not loose the new growth from that experience during the fall. This spring it did have some bloom and is now loosing some of the end twigs from the branch with the new seeds still on it.

Just seams to me it needs a good shot of a fertilizer of some sort but we don't want to shock the roots or burn it up. It had leaves on it all year and only bloomed on some branch ends. It is very thin and droopy.

Any idea you may have would be a help.
Thanks,
Linda

Linda,
The description you have provided seems to me to be of a maple tree in distress and/or decline. Unfortunately, some of the damage trees received during the hurricanes has resulted in a long term decline. Some trees were twisted or pulled out of the ground without obvious symptoms showing in the above ground sections of the tree. The problem that occurs in this situation is possibly due to air pockets. Though roots need oxygen, the occurrence of large air pockets around roots desiccates the roots, the roots die and possible post infection of insects and/or diseases can occur, thereby killing the tree.

However, I cannot say whether the decline you are seeing is a result of such damage. Trees are just susceptible to many damaging factors in urban/suburban environments. Here is a list of just a few things that could damage trees or contribute to declines with or without a storm:
--Lightening can strike a tree and the damage will be subtle, the decline will be slow.

--Over or under irrigation can damage roots eventually leading to decline and death.

--The application of herbicides such as found in weed & feed fertilizer products in the trees root zone can contribute to a tree’s decline.

--Adding or storing soil under canopy will smother roots.

-- Driving under the canopy or anything that damages, cuts, or disturbs roots can lead to long term problems.

The lack of good bloom is not always an indication of poor health, many trees have an alternate blooming cycle, but this fact combined with poor growth is an indication of problems. The drooping of leaves and twigs is possibly an indication of an infestation of an insect called a twig borer. The female of the species lays her eggs at the end of a branch and cuts the twig off for the egg to incubate and hatch on the ground. Normally, a healthy tree can withstand a slight to moderate infestation.

Linda, at this point if the tree is continuing to decline, I would recommend that seek the services of an arborist. Arborists are trained professionals who can evaluate your tree and recommend a course of action. Dr. Ed Gilman of the University of Florida has a great list of factors to help hire an arborist, a few of the pertinent facts are listed, the complete tree care site can be seen at http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/Maturetreecare/index.htm

Hiring an Arborist

Arborists make a career of caring for trees in urban and suburban landscapes. They work for companies commonly referred to as tree experts, tree services, tree care, arborists, tree specialists, and others. Here are few tips for selecting a company to work with your trees:

--Avoid arborists who advertise they top trees. Ask the arborists if they will top your trees. If they say yes, don't use them.

--Have more than one arborist look at the job, and get a written proposal specifying the work to be done.

--Ask for and check local references.

--Be sure the company has the appropriate licenses, insurance, and certifications. Some communities require special permits, insurance or certifications for all arborists to practice in the community.

--Beware of an arborist who suggests removal of living trees. Removal of living trees is sometimes necessary, but should be considered the last resort after all other options have been considered.

--Determine if the arborist is certified with the International Society of Arboriculture in Champaign Illinois. Visit the ISA website for a list of certified arborist by zip code at http://www.isa-arbor.com/

--Ask for verification of personal and property liability insurance and worker's compensation (or a waiver of worker's compensation).

--Low price is a poor gauge of a quality arborist. Often the better ones are more expensive because of more specialized equipment, more professional training, and insurance costs.

Thank you for your question and Happy Gardening,
Carol

I have a poured cement patio at the rear of my house (about 8' x 15' x 4" thick). The dirt below this patio has sunk leaving a 2 or 3 foot deep cave below the patio. The patio itself does not seem to have fallen at all but I am concerned as it is also the foundation for a couple of pillars that holds up a wooden patio for the floor above.

Is this a serious concern?

What are acceptable solutions if I should in fact be fixing this (vs just filling in the edges and hiding the cave below)?

Thanks in advance..........

Jeff Plimmer
Calgary Alberta Canada

Hello Jeff;
Your sinking patio does seem to be a very serious problem. Soil problems are nothing to be complacent about, it is possible that the foundation of your home is in danger.

Of course, I am a horticulturist, not a structural engineer and that is exactly what I recommend you do -- consult with an engineer ASAP.

Anyone have any other suggestions?

Jeff, good luck and please give me a holler if you have problems with your landscape plants.

Happy Gardening,
Carol

Hello Rich,
Thank you for your kind words. Here are some of my favorite trips for folks interested in gardens and gardening:
--The Annual Caladium Festival in Lake Placid, this year to be held August 27th and 28thm 2005. Worth the effort to get folks together for the trip. For more info, see http://www.lpfla.com/events/caladium.htm
--EPCOT International Flower & Garden Festival ends June 5th this year, but usually starts in mid-April for net year's planning. http://disneyworld.disney.go.com/wdw/calendar/specialeventslisting/eventSubListing?id=FlowerGardenSubListingSpecialEventPage&bhcp=1
--Fairchild Tropical Gardens is always a great trip, but even nicer when the Mango Festival is in town, July 9 & 10, 2005. http://www.fairchildgarden.org/horticulture/mangofest.html For Fairchild's event calendar, visit http://www.fairchildgarden.org/publicprograms/n_events.html
--The American Orchid Society in Delray Beach is a good day trip. http://www.orchidweb.org/aos/visit/index.aspx
-One of my favorites is the Edison & Ford Winter Estates in Ft Myers. Edison was also a plant collector and has left a very interesting collection. http://www.edison-ford-estate.com/
--Harry P. Leu Gardens in Orlando is a trip that gardeners around Florida enjoy. http://www.leugardens.org/
--Dr. Brown at Valkaria Gardens up in Valkaria, Fl (Brevard County). Valkaria Tropical Garden is owned and operated by Dr. Frank Brown plant collector, hybridizer, and educator extraordinaire. His private garden contains a large collection of tropical plants including crotons that Dr. Brown collected and hybridized. This nursery & gardens are not open regularly, selected weekends only. For more information and times when the gardens are open call (321)768-1597 or send an email to valkariatg@aol.com

Hope these provide you with some new ideas and Happy Gardening,
Carol

Hello Carol;
Found an intersting plant, this is a ground cover growing mostly under a tree. Leaves are about 2 to 3 inches in size. I need help IDing this one.
Thanks,
Terry
Stuart

Hello Terry;
Yes you did find an interesting plant, it is a Pothos and the best description I have found comes from the University of Florida's Mid-Florida Research & Education Center Pothos Production Guide:

"POTHOS
This plant must have a criminal background, it has so many aliases. Exotica and Tropica show pictures of several Scindapsus and Epipremnum species and Hortus III also lists species of Scindapsus and Epipremnum. Sales catalogs feature names like Devil's Ivy and Golden Pothos. The current name is Epipremnum aureum (alias Scindapsus aureus alias Pothos aureus). `Golden Pothos' is a golden, yellow-green variegated vine with waxy leaves. When grown in optimum conditions, such as the tropics, leaves will grow to two feet in length. `Marble Queen' has smooth waxy leaves with white variegation. A third "Pothos" is still botanically described as Scindapsus. Scindapsus pictus usually goes by the name of Pictus and has thick leatherlike leaves, obliquely ovate, dark green with green-silver blotches."

Terry, this plant has been and still is a staple of the foliage industry here in Florida. It is grown in pots, hanging baskets, and on totem poles. Used as a house plant ONLY, it is fine addition to any interior planting. Pothos comes from the tropics, the picture you have sent is of a plant with juvenile leaves, that is the leaves are small, around 2 to 3 inches, but when the plant matures, it climbs vigorously and the leaves grow to easily exceed 2 feet.

Unfortunately, it has been planted here in the south Florida landscape where it has escaped cultivation. You can regularly find it growing up trees including native trees where the mature form leaves (2') strangle and eventually kill the trees. It is also on the FLEPPC (Florida Invasive Pest Plant Council) list of invasive-exotic plants. If this planting is under your control, I would recommend getting rid of it ASAP.

Carol

Hello Edie,
Below is a copy of the recent Plant Profile on Nun's Orchid I wrote for the paper. It will give you the basic information on growing. When you take the plant out of the pot, it is a good idea to separate the individual plants. This orchid is rhizomatous, meaning it has underground stems and will spread easily, even in a pot.

Propagation is also fairly easy, the division of the plant, as when you take it out of the pot is one way, it also will grow from seed, though orchid seeds do take a bit of knowledge and equipment, and it will propagate from flower stem cuttings. To propagate from the stems, remove the stem and any flowers remaining, cut into 1.5 to 2 inch lengths and push the stem pieces horizontally halfway into the soil. Cover the pot with a bag and keep moist, but not wet, and place in a shaded location until growth starts.

Plant Profile
Scientific Name: Phaius tankervilliae
Family: Orchidaceae
Common Names: Nun’s Orchid
Native to: Himalayas
Description: A true orchid, terrestrial, meaning grows in the ground. Large leaves to 3 feet often crinkled or folded like a fan. The flowers are produced on a large flower spikes with many 4 inch flowers. The flowers open in order on the spike lasting 4 to 6 weeks. The flowers have yellow-brown petals with a white backs and rose lips with a dark throat. Plants form large clumps with most flowers produced in late winter to early spring.
Hardiness: Used as a perennial in USDA Zones 8 – 11, extreme cold could cause dormancy, but should recover after freeze events.
Height/Width: Foliage is typically 3 feet tall with bloom spikes reaching 4 feet. Plants are rhizomatous – have underground stems and will spread slowly.
Light: Plant in shade to part shade to keep the foliage looking good.
Soil/Moisture: Plant in a moist area of well-drained soils. Nun’s orchid does require regular irrigation for best growth.
Culture: A vigorous plant and a heavy feeder. Use a balanced fertilizer 3-4 times per year. Plant on 2-3 foot centers and plan to thin regularly. Mulch heavily to keep the plant moist and the area free or weeds. Removal of flower spikes when spent will encourage more flowers and/or vigorous growth. Flower spikes will produce more flowers per spike as the plants mature.
Uses: Spectacular in pots around water features or as a tall ground cover in shady locations. One of the Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association’s 2005 Plants of the Year.
Misuses & Pests: Too much sun in the tropics cook Nun’s orchid causing the leaves to blanch an ugly yellow & the leaf tips to burn. Also, over-crowding will cause a messy appearance. Occasionally aphids and spider mites will cause problems for Phaius.

Happy Gardening,
Carol

Hello Pat;
Water gardening can be an interesting challenge. Many of the plants have very specific requirements for growth -- the right amount of light, the proper depth of water, salinity, pH, and soil type all affect how well the plants grow and reproduce. Congratulations on trying a few plants.

It is just that -- a few plants -- that is your problem. When the dinner table is less than abundant, then everything gets eaten to the bone. Planting a few plants to share may help protect your investment in more expensive plants.

The Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (http://www.wildflorida.org/critters/default.asp) provides the information on turtles in Florida:

"Freshwater Turtles
Of the 26 turtle species found in or around Florida, 18 are freshwater turtle species. Turtles are reptiles and are generally distinguished by a hard shell, but the softshell turtles have a rubbery shell that allows them to both bury themselves in the sand and swim very fast. Florida's aquatic turtles may walk slowly on land but are quicker in the water, and have webs between their toes to help them swim. Not included among the freshwater turtles are 5 species of marine turtles, the brackish-water diamondback terrapin, and 2 species that prefer life on dry land - the gopher tortoise and box turtle.

Turtles are usually not a threat to humans, but you should not underestimate the powerful jaws of the Florida snapping turtle, the alligator snapping turtle, or the Florida softshell turtle. The Florida Fish & Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC) regulates all turtle harvest, which is closed for softshell turtles and their eggs during May 1 through July 31, and river cooters may not be taken 15 April - 31 July. You may see possession limits and the rules concerning reptiles here. Several freshwater turtle species are protected in Florida; the Lower Keys population of the striped mud turtle is endangered, and the alligator snapping turtle, Barbour's map turtle, Suwannee cooter, and gopher tortoise are species of special concern. In Florida, it is illegal to take, possess, transport, or sell gopher tortoises, or their eggs, except as authorized by the FWC"

As you can see, the FWC carefully regulates the harvesting of turtles. It would probably be very expensive and less than successful to try and reduce the turtle population in your pond, it may not even be legal.I still think it will be a simple task to plant a larger number of plants, choose a wide variety of plants, not just the expensive, exotic ones and grow a row for the hungry.

Gardening to attract wildlife is very popular as is water gardening, visit some of my favorite publications/sites for more information on water gardening and wildlife:

Backyard Habitat Ponds @ http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/FA037
An Introduction to Aquascaping @ http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/FA037
Aquarium/Water Garden Hobbyist Resource Guide @ http://aquat1.ifas.ufl.edu/wgindex.html

Happy Gardening,
Carol

Hello Jenny,
The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone map is a guide, not a be all to end all. The official version on the map and all of the supporting information is available on the web at the National Arboretum's site at http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/index.html

The Zones are based on the "average minimum temperature" as recorded for each of the years 1974 to 1986 in the United States and Canada and 1971 to 1984 in Mexico, so this makes this map a good place to start. When a plant has a USDA Hardiness Zone on it's tag, that is just a guideline suggesting that the plant will grow in that Zone. Usually a tag will say from Zone XX to XX, I would not assume growth in a zone not listed.

However, this map does have some shortcomings, it does not consider heat, precipitation or lack thereof like our particular wet and rainy seasons. It does not consider individual plants response to cold or hot weather. Your local nurseries and Extension Service will have great list of plants for this area.

Check out the BLOG entry "Some Like it Hot" for another look at Hardiness Zone info.

Happy Gardening,
Carol

Hello Kathleen,
There are many species of Aloe grown in our Florida landscapes. Most of the aloes are easy-to-grow, clump-forming, succulent plants. Many aloes have thick leaves with spiny edges. The leaves usually emerge in a rosette (from the middle) on a very short stem or on a much compressed stem. One of the attractions for growing aloe in the home landscape, besides the well-known medicinal uses, is the fact that aloe is extremely pest resistant when grown in the right place.

Most aloe species prefer a location that is in full sun and has well drained soil, aloe is very drought resistant. However, whether your aloe is in the right place or not, it sounds like you have something else going on. The description you provide is typical of an infestation of Agrobacterium tumefaciens, the bacteria that causes the disease known as Crown Gall.

The University of Arizona describes Crown Gall as such:
"Crown gall is caused by the soil-borne bacterium, Agrobacterium tumefaciens. This disease is one of the most widely studied of all plant diseases. This gall inducing bacterium enters plants through wounds primarily on lower stems and trunks and roots. Cellular growth is stimulated and galls of varying sizes and shapes are produced in infected plant tissue. Agrobacterium tumefaciens has the largest host range of any bacterial plant pathogen. More than 600 plant species in over 90 plant families are susceptible.

Galls form on stems and roots, especially at the root crown, the area where roots and stem come together. Galls enlarge with host plant growth. Gall formation does not occur in dormant plants. The galls range in size from less than 1/2 inch in diameter to over 8 inches in susceptible, older plants. The size of the galls is influenced by plant species and size and growth rate of the infected plant part. Galls on woody plants are spongy and light colored when young but with age become rough, hard and fissured. Old galls are often sloughed off."

Kathleen, if you could send a picture, I could possibly confirm crown gall, though it has been reported on Aloe, it is by no means a common pest. Whatever the cause, more than likely, physical removal is the only control and that is not easy nor is it likely that you can completely eradicate the pathogen. However, try removing any symptoms of galls by pruning out the galls. You must cut into clean tissue on either side of the gall and sterilize your shears between each cut with a bleach solution.

If the aloe continues to produce galls, it may be best to completely remove the planting and use the sun to sterilize the soil in the area. This process is known as solar soil sterilization or soil solarization, check the BLOG listings for instructions on this process. Once the soil is clean, then you can replant with disease-free plants.

Good luck and Happy Gardening,
Carol

Soil solarization uses radiant heat from the sun, collected through clear plastic to heat the soil to a temperature that kills pest, fungi, nematodes, weeds, weed seeds, and others. Research has shown that soil temperatures may rise in excess of 130 degrees F up to 6 inches deep. It is a simple process, one that requires sun and heat - things we have on the Treasure Coast, and time. The best time for this process in Florida is during June, July, and August when we have the hot sun needed for solarization.

Preparation is important. Soil must be well tilled to destroy clods and plant debris so heat conduction will be uniform through the soil. Air pockets could prevent the heating of the soil around the air pocket. Moisture of the soil should be high, as wet soil conducts heat better than dry. Also, most pest organisms are more affected by the heat in moist soil. Prepare the soil as for your next garden or planting.

Use clear polyethylene plastic, not black. Clear plastic allows the soil temperatures to rise faster and higher because sunlight passes through clear plastic to heat the soil directly. Thin plastic (l to 2 mil) rather than thick (6 mils) has been reported to favor deeper control of soil-borne fungi faster, but both eventually provided equal control and thicker plastic is less likely to tear. Be sure that the edge of the plastic is covered with soil. A trench around the garden will help in providing a seal for the plastic. This seal will help keep heat and moisture in.

Soil should be covered for at least 4-6 weeks, the summer is ideal for Florida, the air and soil temperatures are at their highest. Leave the plastic in place until planting time and do not till or disturb treated soil before planting. Avoid bringing contaminated plants or untreated soil into the treated bed.

Your new plants will appreciate the clean soil that solarization has provided!

Carol

Hello Barbara;
Good call, there is a big difference between full sun here on the Treasure Coast and full sun in other parts of the country. There are two good sources in my opinion for information on heat tolerant plants.
* Look for a listing of "Heat Zone" on the plant tag, this is very different from the USDA Zone Map. The Heat Zone map was developed by Dr Marc Cathey, President Emeritus of the American Horticulture Society and AHS owns the copyright for the map. For more information, visit http://www.ahs.org/publications/heat_zone_map.htm

* The other listing for planting for local conditions come from local colleges and universities. Here in Florida, that is the University of Florida. Some of the best publications for plants in our area are:
-----Low-Maintenance Landscape Plants for South Florida - http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP107
-----Native Landscape Plants for South Florida - http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP222
-----Landscape Tree Selection -- South Florida - http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/TOPIC_Tree_Selection_South

Thanks for the question and Happy Gardening,
Carol